Choosing a Setting for Diamond Engagement Rings

There are thousands upon thousands of diamond engagement rings on the market today, each one a little different. Some clients come to us with a precise idea of exactly what they want, but most are just looking for something beautiful and would like to see a wide selection. At Marlow’s we can certainly provide that, and guide hopeful men and women through the process of choosing an engagement ring. Couples are of course more than welcome too.

The first thing to do is choose a metal for the band. We have platinum, yellow gold, and white gold engagement rings. There is no single best choice for band material- some of our clients prefer the rich lustre and classic look of yellow gold, others the paler sophistication of platinum or the gleaming brightness of white gold. The different metals also vary in hardness, durability, and price.

The next choice is all about setting. There are single and multi-stone engagement rings, but even those with only one stone can vary widely in setting. The simplest setting is the classic Solitaire, where a single medium to large diamond is held above the band in a metal claw, usually with four prongs. From there, smaller diamonds or coloured gems can be arranged to compliment the central diamond. The Halo pattern has the feature stone surrounded by a circle of smaller ones, or they may be set along the band (or shank) of the ring.

Small stones along the band may be Pave set- embedded in the band like paving stones, or Channel set in a cavity made to hold a neat row. Both accent and feature gems can also be set in a Bezel, placed in the metal with a thin collar gripping the edges of the stone. Tension settings are rare but they are possible. Here, the ring is not quite a full circle. Where the two ends should meet a diamond is placed. As the name suggests it’s pinched between the two metal arms and held in place by tension alone.

When choosing a setting there are two main factors to consider. The first is light-gathering ability. The reason most diamonds are held above the band in a claw is that this method allows light to enter the stone from all around, not just from above. The more light going into the stone, the greater the sparkle. Tension settings also allow excellent exposure to light, but they have their own problems. If the tension is released even slightly, the stone is lost, so the band must not flex at all.

Durability is the second concern. Today’s active women engage in sports. The shop, cook, clean, swim, run around, look after children, go to the beach and generally lead a very full life. Large rings with complex claw settings are more easily caught in fabrics and harder to keep clean. If your intended is particularly busy and likes the outdoors or the gym, it may be better to choose a stronger, less exposed Bezel setting.

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This entry was posted on Saturday, May 21st, 2011 at 10:13 am.

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